For the high-end tailored custom made suit, it is important that you choose a fabric that will reflect the attention to detail on the tailoring. I would recommend a worsted wool suit, or a high wool blend, with super numbers of 100 or higher. For the sophisticated among you, we would suggest evaluating woolen and cashmere blends that provide the rich finish and the perfect feel without the glossy look. Keep in mind, however, that the high end fabrics may not be the best choice for daily wear and frequent cleaning. Don’t settle for being told it’s “100% wool” because it may not be and that doesn’t say much about the fabric quality anyway.
The term “The Devil is in the Details” is never more applicable than with suits. Have a look at the tailoring work and focus on the smallest details. Look at the pick stitching that is offered on the highest end suits, If hand sewn it needs to have a nice even flow, with some minor imperfections (a telltale sign that a human did the work without the aid of a machine). If it is machine stitched, look for short threads that blend seamlessly with the edges of the suit, providing that rich, custom finish. Look closely at the stripes if you choose a pinstriped suit. Do these align well with the top pocket? Remember that the lining in the bottom pockets can be a little off depending on how the suit is pulled in. Evaluate how the pockets are aligned. If you choose a slanted (also called hacking pockets from their equestrian origins) ensure that the angles are the same. Finally, the feel of the suit against your body contour must be perfect. High quality tailors have the ability to create a perfect suit with specific measurements that you always want to wear even if you have much newer suits in your wardrobe. The bottom line is that the smallest details are the ones that will make you say “this is my favorite suit!” Over time, quality craftsmanship shows.